Energy Efficiency What we can DO NOW
Learn What You Can do to Help by EF&EG Staff -6/2011-
“With America now importing 60% of the oil we use and a national bill for this habit that came to $250 billion last year, there is simply no time to waste. With worldwide demand growing rapidly, and concern about the environmental impact of greenhouse gases rising, the deployment of clean, reliable sources of energy is clearly in our national interest.” —Secretary of Energy Samuel W. Bodman
Steven Nadel, Executive Director of the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy (ACEEE) cities that the U.S. continues to lead the world in oil consumption, using about 25% of total global production. “Only by significantly reducing demand can we rebalance markets and drive prices down.” Nadel called on government and business leaders to launch a vigorous public awareness effort to ease America’s fuel consumption. The average American consumes six times more energy than the world average.
Home Energy Audits
A home energy audit is the first step to assess how much you use, and what you can do to make your home more energy efficient. An audit will show you problems that when corrected, could save significant amounts of money over time. During the audit, specialists can pinpoint where your house is losing energy. Audits also determine the efficiency of your home’s heating and cooling systems. An audit may show you ways to conserve hot water and electricity. You can perform a simple energy audit yourself, or have an energy professional carry out a more thorough one.
Do-It-Yourself Home Energy Audits
You can spot many problems in any type of house. When auditing your home, keep a checklist of areas you have inspected and problems you found. This will help you prioritize your energy efficiency upgrades.
Locating Air Leaks
First, make a list of obvious air leaks (drafts). The potential energy savings from reducing drafts in a home may range from 5 to 30% per year, and the home will be much more comfortable afterward. Check for indoor air leaks, such as gaps along the baseboard or edge of the flooring and at junctures of the walls and ceiling.
Check to see if air can flow through these places:
- Electrical outlets
- Switch plates
- Window frames
- Baseboards
- Weather stripping around doors
- Fireplace dampers
- Attic hatches
- Window-mounted air conditioners.
Also look for gaps around pipes and wires, electrical outlets, foundation seals, and mail slots. Check to see if the caulking and weather stripping are applied properly, leaving no gaps or cracks, and are in good condition.
Inspect windows and doors for air leaks. If you can see daylight around a door or window frame, then there are leaks. You can usually seal these leaks by caulking or weather stripping them. Check storm windows to see if they fit and are not broken. Consider replacing old windows and doors with newer, high-performance ones. If new ones are too costly, you can install low-cost plastic sheets over the windows.
On the outside of your house, inspect all areas where different materials meet, including:
- All exterior corners
- Where siding and chimneys meet
- where the foundation and the bottom of exterior brick or siding meet.
Plug and caulk holes or penetrations for faucets, pipes, electric outlets, and wiring. Look for cracks and holes in the mortar, foundation, and siding, and seal them with appropriate material. Check the exterior caulking around doors and windows, and see whether exterior storm and primary doors seal tightly.
When sealing any home, you must always be aware of the danger of indoor air pollution and combustion appliance “backdrafts.” Backdrafting is when the various combustion appliances and exhaust fans in the home compete for air. An exhaust fan may pull the combustion gases back into the living space. This can create a dangerous and unhealthy situation in the home.
In homes where a fuel is burned (i.e., natural gas, fuel oil, propane, or wood) for heating, be certain the appliance has an adequate air supply. Generally, one square inch of vent opening is required for each 1,000 Btu of appliance input heat. When in doubt, contact your utility company, energy professional, or ventilation contractor.
Insulation
The amount of insulation level might be inadequate, especially if you have an older home.
If the attic hatch is located above a conditioned space, check to see if it is at least as heavily insulated as the attic, is weather stripped, and closes tightly. In the attic, determine whether openings for items such as pipes, ductwork and chimneys are sealed. Seal any gaps with an expanding foam caulk or some other permanent sealant.
While you are inspecting the attic, check to see if there is a vapor barrier under the attic insulation. The vapor barrier might be tarpaper, Kraft paper attached to fiberglass batts, or a plastic sheet. If there is no vapor barrier, consider painting interior ceilings with vapor barrier paint. This reduces the amount of water vapor that can pass through the ceiling. Large amounts of moisture can reduce the effectiveness of insulation and promote structural damage.
Make sure attic vents are not blocked by insulation. Seal any electrical boxes in the ceiling with flexible caulk (from the living room side or attic side) and cover the entire attic floor with at least the current recommended amount of insulation.
Checking a wall’s insulation level is more difficult. It’s best to have a thermographic inspection by an energy auditor to determine the level.
If your basement is unheated, check for insulation under the living area flooring. Generally an R-value of 25 is the recommended minimum level of insulation. If the basement is heated, the foundation walls should be insulated to at least R-19. Your water heater, hot water pipes, and furnace ducts should all be insulated.
Heating/Cooling Equipment
If you have a forced-air furnace, check your filters and replace them, generally, about once every month or two, especially during periods of high usage. Have a professional check and clean your equipment once a year.
If the unit is more than 15 years old, consider replacing it with a newer, energy-efficient unit. A new unit would greatly reduce your energy consumption, especially if the existing equipment is in poor condition. Check your ductwork for dirt streaks, especially near seams. These indicate air leaks, and should be sealed with a duct mastic. Insulate any ducts or pipes that travel through unheated spaces. An insulation R-Value of 6 is the recommended minimum.
Lighting
Lighting accounts for about 10% of your electric bill. Examine the wattage size of the light bulbs and use compact fluorescent lamps for areas where lights are on for hours at a time. They use 75% less energy.
Professional Home Energy Audits
The energy auditor typically does a room-by-room examination of the home, and an analysis of past utility bills. Professional energy audits typically include a blower door test. Most will also include a thermographic scan.
Before the energy auditor visits your house, make a list of existing problems such as condensation and uncomfortable or drafty rooms. Have copies of your yearly energy bills. (Ask your utility for them) Auditors use this information to establish what to look for during the audit. The auditor first examines the outside of the home and its features (i.e., wall area, number and size of windows). The auditor also analyzes the behavior:
- Is anyone home during working hours?
- What is the average thermostat setting for summer and winter?
- How many people live here?
- Is every room in use?
Your answers may help uncover simple ways to reduce energy consumption. Walk through your home with the auditors as they work, and ask questions. They may use equipment to detect sources of energy loss, such as blower doors, infrared cameras, furnace efficiency meters, and surface thermometers.
Selecting an Energy Auditor
Your state or local government energy or weatherization office may have a list of companies that perform audits. The utility company may conduct audits or recommend local auditors. Check the phone directory under Energy.
